Numerous issues – 1...
 
Notifications
Clear all

Numerous issues – 11kW Daikin Altherma 3

252 Posts
19 Users
59 Reactions
15.6 K Views
(@derek-m)
Illustrious Member Moderator
13722 kWhs
Veteran Expert
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 4165
 

Posted by: @newhouse87

@transparent i think there is a red ring around each flow gauge that maybe i need to turn, they seem stiff however.

Get the manufacturer's name and model, then download the manual which should explain how to make adjustments. As I stated in my previous post, don't start adjusting flow rates until you have your heat pump operating continuously in WC mode.

 


   
newhouse87 reacted
ReplyQuote
Transparent
(@transparent)
Famed Member Moderator
8379 kWhs
Veteran Expert
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 1390
 

It's not common to have any manual adjustment on an UFH manifold like that.

Don't start unscrewing red rings unless you are completely certain of what they're for!

Save energy... recycle electrons!


   
newhouse87 reacted
ReplyQuote
(@newhouse87)
Reputable Member Member
1376 kWhs
Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 211
Topic starter  

@derek-m is my weather curve at 44 at-3 and 28 at 17 not ok? Also why would say my lwt be at 48 other evening and 28 today, or will that go up once there is a call for heat? Maybe the system is okish, how long is normal for 25sqm room to heat up 2degrees say? 3 loops. I know you cant give exact time but would 4-7hours be normal?


   
ReplyQuote
(@newhouse87)
Reputable Member Member
1376 kWhs
Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 211
Topic starter  

@transparent

seems easy. Might lower it to 1.5. Bathroom right beside manifold so no way should it have same flow as loops farther down the house.


   
ReplyQuote
(@newhouse87)
Reputable Member Member
1376 kWhs
Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 211
Topic starter  

......


   
ReplyQuote
Transparent
(@transparent)
Famed Member Moderator
8379 kWhs
Veteran Expert
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 1390
 

Posted by: @newhouse87

Maybe the system is okish, how long is normal for 25sqm room to heat up 2degrees say?

I'm not sure that the floor area of the room is the most significant factor.

The mass of the concrete pad, the floor surface which covers it and the proportion of total energy which is available to that room-loop would seem to be just as significant.

I'd also like to gently query the concept of a room 'heating up'.
That phraseology is derived from the days of gas boilers and coal fires.

The design of a heat-pump system is based on keeping rooms at the constant temperature you've set them at.
It doesn't 'heat up' because it doesn't cool down.

Save energy... recycle electrons!


   
ReplyQuote



(@newhouse87)
Reputable Member Member
1376 kWhs
Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 211
Topic starter  

@transparent yeah the rooms with tiles heat up quickest. I mean when stat calls for heat the room to warm up a bit more shall we say. Im considering having all loops open in living areas as william suggested.


   
ReplyQuote
(@derek-m)
Illustrious Member Moderator
13722 kWhs
Veteran Expert
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 4165
 

Posted by: @newhouse87

@derek-m is my weather curve at 44 at-3 and 28 at 17 not ok? Also why would say my lwt be at 48 other evening and 28 today, or will that go up once there is a call for heat? Maybe the system is okish, how long is normal for 25sqm room to heat up 2degrees say? 3 loops. I know you cant give exact time but would 4-7hours be normal?

The first thing that you need to do is turn up all your room thermostats so that they are all calling for heating, then wait, probably several hours for the room temperatures to stabilise. If the rooms are too warm then reduce the WC curve setting at the low outside air temperature end, then wait several hours again.

The objective is to balance the heat energy produced by your heat pump, to the heat loss of your home. As I said previously, this is not a 5 minute job.

The slope of your WC curve is dependent upon the heat loss of your home. Do you have any heat loss calculations?

 


   
ReplyQuote
(@newhouse87)
Reputable Member Member
1376 kWhs
Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 211
Topic starter  

@derek-m oh man sounds difficult, im presuming the installer had the calculations, is it on the ber cert i posted? When rooms get up to temp, dont the loops just close so they wont overheat. What would you think of leaving all living areas loops open together or would that be costly?


   
ReplyQuote
Transparent
(@transparent)
Famed Member Moderator
8379 kWhs
Veteran Expert
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 1390
 

Yes, tiles are good conductors. 🙂 

Do you know if the concrete pads have a thermal break (of insulation) in the rooms where they abut an external wall?

Look again at the photo I posted earlier.
There's a 100mm high upstand of insulation around the border, before the concrete gets poured.

In the following photo you can see this 30mm-thick barrier being installed.

image

Save energy... recycle electrons!


   
ReplyQuote
(@newhouse87)
Reputable Member Member
1376 kWhs
Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 211
Topic starter  

@transparent yes we have upstanding insulation, i done it myself. Thanks again to everybody here for all the info, hard to take it all in today 🤣. so far i have changed my dhwtemps and schedule and disabled buh so hope that helps. Now im strongly considering having no zones in living areas. Will adjust bathroom flow rate as that room gets to hot and quick. If bathroom heats up, will the water eventually flow to colder rooms more?


   
ReplyQuote
Transparent
(@transparent)
Famed Member Moderator
8379 kWhs
Veteran Expert
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 1390
 

Ah... so are you telling us that you're a self-builder, but that you sub-contracted the design and installation of the heating system to a 3rd-party?

Save energy... recycle electrons!


   
Morgan reacted
ReplyQuote



Page 5 / 21
Share:

Join Us!

Latest Posts

Heat Pump Humour

Members Online

 No online members at the moment

x  Powerful Protection for WordPress, from Shield Security
This Site Is Protected By
Shield Security