@derek-m another quick question! Now that the secondary pump is redundant does it need completely disconnecting or is it ok to leave with just the isolation valves off? Just thinking of the stagnant water sitting there!!
@derek-m another quick question! Now that the secondary pump is redundant does it need completely disconnecting or is it ok to leave with just the isolation valves off? Just thinking of the stagnant water sitting there!!
I would suggest that you open the valve and run the pump for maybe 10 minutes, preferably when you carry out the legionella cycle.
@curlykatie so that is a control group valve which is exactly as expected on a pressurised hot water cylinder
orient this picture against it. number 1 will go to the incoming mains from the street. 2 should be connected to the cold supply to the taps in your house. 3 to an expansion vessel (a dead-end, there purely to absorb pressure fluctuations). 4 to the supply into the bottom of your hot water cylinder. 5 to a discharge pipe that goes outside of the house somewhere, via a should-be-visible-to-the-user tundish - will only have water flowing out of it if there is a problem.
the interesting bit is where the cold supply to outlets is taken from . if its branched from before #1, then its at different pressure to that hot coming out of your cylinder and that is the issue with a fairly high degree of confidence. If its taken from #2, then its balanced which is correct, and thus the issue is something else.
isolation valves - unlikely to be in the mixer (But not impossible). look for access methods underneath bath panels, back of cupboards , behind plinths etc. its always really good to know where they are anyway, regardless of issues like this - if something leaks, you need to know where to turn off!
@derek-m ok- I’ll see if I can get a switch added to the pump as it’s currently disconnected.
With regards to the legionella cycle- we have an emersion heater which we have to put on manually once a week to heat to 60 (and keen an eye on it as it goes way over this!). The plumber has suggested that the developers need to fit a timer to the emersion and that it is a ‘legal requirement’- just wanted to check this before I case them?!
@derek-m ok- I’ll see if I can get a switch added to the pump as it’s currently disconnected.
With regards to the legionella cycle- we have an emersion heater which we have to put on manually once a week to heat to 60 (and keen an eye on it as it goes way over this!). The plumber has suggested that the developers need to fit a timer to the emersion and that it is a ‘legal requirement’- just wanted to check this before I case them?!
If the water pump cable is long enough, you could just fit a standard mains 3 pin plug that you can use in a 240v socket.
Does your immersion heater contain a thermostat? If so, then adjust it to switch off at 65C. I do believe that in many of the systems the heat pump controller can be used to switch the immersion heater on and off, and can also limit the maximum temperature.
Have a look at your heat pump controller manual under the legionella cycle settings, to see if there is mention of controlling the immersion heater. It could be that you need to provide your electrician with further training, since you should not have to manual perform and monitor the legionella cycle.
@derek-m there are 2 thermostats in the tank- the top 1 is linked to the Midea system, the bottom one (in the photo) I was told by the plumber doesn’t do anything?? Maybe this is the stat for the emersion… I can’t see anything on the immersion itself.
The Midea controller does seem to have an option for immersion but I was told by the installer they were not compatible!! So frustrating!
@derek-m thank so much for your reply. I really do appreciate it. I’ve attached some photos- let me know if you need anything else. I think one of them is the circulating pump,
katir
The white box on the side of the cylinder, shown in the first photo, who the the manufacturer and what is the model number? What is the scale on the dial?
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