@mandie could be the batteries on your wireless controller - 2 X AA batteries. Tell tail sign is if your wireless controller will not operate in Auto Adaptive. IE it will only stay in weather compensation mode.
If you change the batteries and it’s still not pairing up with your main controller then you may not have got it to pair up properly in the first place. Maybe check the range and interference of your wireless wall box and wireless thermostat or contact Mitsubishi if the batteries don’t fix it.
@sunandair thank you for the reply - I tried this already a few weeks ago - I watched a you tube video to pair up - i also did a full system reset including my own internet and changed the batteries in the stat - J1 comes straight back on - I think I have a local company to look at it but if I can resolve that would be better (as I work for a boiler company and they’re in competition with us until our engineers complete their heat source course)
@derek-m I think I managed to attach a pic of the j1 fault -
No photo, but I have now had a chance to look at the Ecodan manual which mentions faults J1 to J8, but does not give any details.
Do you have a copy of the manual that came with the wireless controller, if so, what does it state about fault J1?
If you disable the wireless controller for the moment, you should be able to control your heat pump using the main FTC, which will prove that everything else is working correctly. To disable the wireless control mode you need to set DIP switch SW1-8 to the 'off' position. If you would care to try this and report back.
That’s the photo - I can use the heat source pump from this controller - however sorry I’m a bit daft and don’t know what DIP or Sw8 etc is on the controller (but I found a you tube video step by step) to reset everything and it’s still not doing what it should - I can’t find the manual like a twit (I put safe place and now can’t find them)
That’s the photo - I can use the heat source pump from this controller - however sorry I’m a bit daft and don’t know what DIP or Sw8 etc is on the controller (but I found a you tube video step by step) to reset everything and it’s still not doing what it should - I can’t find the manual like a twit (I put safe place and now can’t find them)
All manuals hide in the corners when put in a safe place. 😋
A DIP Switch is a set of small switches located on the circuit board inside the main control box. Look at page 27 in the attached manual.
We finally got this sorted, after 2 more plumber visits, the second with an electrician. They checked all the cables with a meter which showed no problem. However after them spending ages swapping things around they decided to run a new ‘test cable’ to the affected controller and the system worked. So we ended up moving the thermostat to a new position with a new cable. Neither the plumber or electrician can explain what was happening but at least we are up and running properly.
We finally got this sorted, after 2 more plumber visits, the second with an electrician. They checked all the cables with a meter which showed no problem. However after them spending ages swapping things around they decided to run a new ‘test cable’ to the affected controller and the system worked. So we ended up moving the thermostat to a new position with a new cable. Neither the plumber or electrician can explain what was happening but at least we are up and running properly.
There are several possible reasons.
The original cable could have been of the wrong type allowing interference from other electrical devices.
The cable could have been passing near electrical power cables, again picking up interference.
The original cable could have been slightly damaged causing signal distortion.
The wonders of modern technology. I doubt the 'caveman' had a communication problem when telling his kid's to throw another log on the fire. 😋
