Is there an easy way to tell what version of the Ecodan controller I have and how do the versions differ?
I've been following a number of 'heat curve' threads as I'm in the process of tweaking ours at the moment. I have found that the Ecodan allows you to put three data points into the heat curve which means you can give it a kink in the middle (up or down). I haven't seen anyone else mention this and I've found it rather clunky to use- but it does work. Once you've set up the max and min you can bung an intermediate point in to make the 'curve' less of a straight line. I'm working with just the two points at the moment and may move on to the middle if necessary.
Is there an easy way to tell what version of the Ecodan controller I have and how do the versions differ?
I've been following a number of 'heat curve' threads as I'm in the process of tweaking ours at the moment. I have found that the Ecodan allows you to put three data points into the heat curve which means you can give it a kink in the middle (up or down). I haven't seen anyone else mention this and I've found it rather clunky to use- but it does work. Once you've set up the max and min you can bung an intermediate point in to make the 'curve' less of a straight line. I'm working with just the two points at the moment and may move on to the middle if necessary.
If you look on the front case of the FTC there is a model number. FTC6 is PAC-IF073-BE, FTC5 is PAC-IF063-BE. Lower FTCs have lower IF0X.
Not sure of the differences.
I've been following a number of 'heat curve' threads as I'm in the process of tweaking ours at the moment. I have found that the Ecodan allows you to put three data points into the heat curve which means you can give it a kink in the middle (up or down). I haven't seen anyone else mention this and I've found it rather clunky to use- but it does work. Once you've set up the max and min you can bung an intermediate point in to make the 'curve' less of a straight line. I'm working with just the two points at the moment and may move on to the middle if necessary.
Yes we’ve noticed and have used a small mid point kink in the WC curve. Our reasoning for trying this is that we have a large expanse of glazing in the form of bifold doors. These give great solar gain in autumn but the angle of sun later in winter means we lose the solar gain.
We have also noticed that the triple glazed panels of the doors are thermally very effective down to about 4c outside temp, but when it gets colder than that the thermal efficiency is not so great and the bifold doors become something of a cold spot in the room space.
So having a steeper slope at the colder end of the curve and a shallower slope at the warmer end of the curve appears to compensate for varying heat loss through the winter variations. I guess this is unique to our specific circumstances and may not apply to most situations.
its also still a work-in-progress. Our overall insulation levels are quite high so the cold spots do stand out a bit More. Another cold spot is the characterful inglenook fireplace we have in one feature room..... large expanse of single brick thick fireback below a massive oak lintel and difficult to insulate without spoiling the authentic character. Yet another compromise. We’ve tried to keep these areas as small as possible but that’s all.