I'm not sure of your make/model? Might be worth a check of installation instructions.
I assume brackets are official ashp ones? So maybe the heatpump should have been installed as far as possible away from wall which (from looks) would have added 50mm or so?
Possibly a bit nitpicking as maybe makes little difference in reality? But if you end up involving installer it could be added to list!
Tbh it probably wouldn't make much difference. I'm going to add bit weight to heat pump first. Then il build base if no improvement. Presume I could use rubber feet that already on it for new mount? Won't be involving installer, not worth the headache, he's pretty useless.
It's Daikin altherma 2. Presume it's correct brackets.think dismounting from wall only realistic option to stop the vibration.
@newhouse87 Might be worth having a look at mounting kits intended for floor mounting of heat pumps; most are 30-40 cm. long vibration absorbing ‘rails’ that are bolted to the base of the pump. My Daikin is mounted this way, please see piccie attached. Regards, Toodles.
Toodles, he heats his home with cold draughts and cooks his food with magnets.
@newhouse87 Might be worth having a look at mounting kits intended for floor mounting of heat pumps; most are 30-40 cm. long vibration absorbing ‘rails’ that are bolted to the base of the pump. My Daikin is mounted this way, please see piccie attached. Regards, Toodles.
Hoping to use bracket and rubber feet already on it and attach to base I build up to it. To floor mount now I'd need spark and plumber back at cost.
@newhouse87 I was thinking in terms of using the floor mounts on your built up base; you produce a sturdy base with built in drainage and then mount the pump on the rails. Most mounts are approx. 100 mm. high (you would obviously need to ascertain exact dimensions of the mounts you would be using) this forms part of the overall height of your base then. These mounts absorb a lot of the vibration and I think also allow you to adjust the mounting points to level the pump (which by the sound of things, your current mountings don’t!) Regards, Toodles.
Toodles, he heats his home with cold draughts and cooks his food with magnets.
@newhouse87 I was thinking in terms of using the floor mounts on your built up base; you produce a sturdy base with built in drainage and then mount the pump on the rails. Most mounts are approx. 100 mm. high (you would obviously need to ascertain exact dimensions of the mounts you would be using) this forms part of the overall height of your base then. These mounts absorb a lot of the vibration and I think also allow you to adjust the mounting points to level the pump (which by the sound of things, your current mountings don’t!) Regards, Toodles.
Oh sorry misunderstood. What about using rail already there but adding what appears to he shock absorbers in your pic. Presume that's what the black rubbers are in your pic?
@newhouse87 I assume you are thinking in terms of continuing to wall mount by interposing the floor mounts? I think the better route would be to isolate the pump from the wall completely and floor (raised base) mount as mentioned earlier. If you are making changes, a clean sweep and proper job is the best route.😉 Regards, Toodles.
Toodles, he heats his home with cold draughts and cooks his food with magnets.
@newhouse87 I assume you are thinking in terms of continuing to wall mount by interposing the floor mounts? I think the better route would be to isolate the pump from the wall completely and floor (raised base) mount as mentioned earlier. If you are making changes, a clean sweep and proper job is the best route.😉 Regards, Toodles.
Oh yes totally off the wall onto raised base but I was hoping to just use mount rails and rubber feet it's on already and screw that into base. But the shock absorbers as in your pic the black rubbers the rails are attached to might be good idea.
@newhouse87 And I think, kinder to the heat pump and its’ longevity. It is best to isolate any vibration you can as early on in the ‘chain’ as possible. A level and solid base with isolation mountings is probably the best method going. Regards, Toodles.
Toodles, he heats his home with cold draughts and cooks his food with magnets.
Oh and don’t forget to facilitate condensate drainage to avoid a skating rink in front of the pump during icy weather. At least that far off the ground, you shouldn’t have any debris problems from leaves etc! Regards, Toodles.
Toodles, he heats his home with cold draughts and cooks his food with magnets.
There are different patterns and lengths. The link above takes you to one with a 400mm integral steel C-channel.
With a bit of thought you should be able to reposition the unit without having to call out a heating engineer. Remove the drip-tray and have a look at the underside. You might be able to raise it 1cm on a couple of car-jacks if you spread the weight via a piece of plywood or some old floorboard.
Once you've taken the weights off the existing shock-mounts, they should be easy to unbolt. Likewise the wall-mount-frame can then be removed.
Slide in the new anti-vibration feet, fit T-nuts and bolts, then lower the unit onto the new concrete pad. Get the T-nuts from the same supplier as the feet, so you know they'll fit.
Two things to watch out for:
1: Take precautions to prevent the ASHP toppling forward or back when you lift it.
If I was doing it, I'd put a couple of ring-bolts into the wall about half-way up. That allows me to use nylon rope to stop it moving forward.
Add some soft cushioning behind to prevent it falling backwards against the wall. I'd probably use some pieces of Celotex or Kingspan rigid insulation board. Then tighten the nylon rope to squeeze the ASHP against that cushioning block.
2: The easier you are able to lift the unit with car-jacks, the easier it is for a gang to steal it using a trolley jack.
When you construct the concrete base, make it as difficult as you can for them to slide their trolley jack below it!
When you remove the temporary nylon rope, you might be able to use chain or stainless-steel hawser on those two ring-bolts. You need to find a secure way of fixing that to the back of the heat pump without damaging it. There are 'security bolts' available, which are easy to fit but tricky to undo again.
Thieves will arrive with a bolt cutter to chop through the pipes and the electric cable anyway. So you need a bit of thought as to how a chain or hawser can be attached to make access difficult.
There are several suppliers of stainless 'rope' in the UK, such as GS Products. They also offer all sorts of loops, shackles and fixings, and should be able to advise you of an effective deterrent.
This post was modified 5 months ago 2 times by Transparent
There are different patterns and lengths. The link above takes you to one with a 400mm integral steel C-channel.
With a bit of thought you should be able to reposition the unit without having to call out a heating engineer. Remove the drip-tray and have a look at the underside. You might be able to raise it 1cm on a couple of car-jacks if you spread the weight via a piece of plywood or some old floorboard.
Once you've taken the weights off the existing shock-mounts, they should be easy to unbolt. Likewise the wall-mount-frame can then be removed.
Slide in the new anti-vibration feet, fit T-nuts and bolts, then lower the unit onto the new concrete pad. Get the T-nuts from the same supplier as the feet, so you know they'll fit.
Two things to watch out for:
1: Take precautions to prevent the ASHP toppling forward or back when you lift it.
If I was doing it, I'd put a couple of ring-bolts into the wall about half-way up. That allows me to use nylon rope to stop it moving forward.
Add some soft cushioning behind to prevent it falling backwards against the wall. I'd probably use some pieces of Celotex or Kingspan rigid insulation board. Then tighten the nylon rope to squeeze the ASHP against that cushioning block.
2: The easier you are able to lift the unit with car-jacks, the easier it is for a gang to steal it using a trolley jack.
When you construct the concrete base, make it as difficult as you can for them to slide their trolley jack below it!
When you remove the temporary nylon rope, you might be able to use chain or stainless-steel hawser on those two ring-bolts. You need to find a secure way of fixing that to the back of the heat pump without damaging it. There are 'security bolts' available, which are easy to fit but tricky to undo again.
Thieves will arrive with a bolt cutter to chop through the pipes and the electric cable anyway. So you need a bit of thought as to how a chain or hawser can be attached to make access difficult.
There are several suppliers of stainless 'rope' in the UK, such as GS Products. They also offer all sorts of loops, shackles and fixings, and should be able to advise you of an effective deterrent.
Cheers for info, where I live I don't need worry about someone robbing my heat pump.
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