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11.2kW Mitsubishi Ecodan replacing LPG boiler
Hello all,
About 4 weeks ago we took the plunge and replaced our LPG boiler with an ASHP. Â The installers did a reasonably good job of the install - they've had to come back a couple of times to sort out minor niggles but nothing major. Â However I am not convinced that they left the system running in the most efficient way.
A little bit about our house - it's about 15 years old, timber frame with wood cladding over blockwork exterior walls. 282 sqm, over three floors. Â Insulation was done to the standards in place at the time. Â UFH to ground floor, split into 3 zones each with their own thermostat. Â Radiators on the top two floors, with a single thermostat. Â All of the UFH kit is Uponor as originally fitted. We have a 4kW solar PV array. Â Most radiators were replaced during the install, and all have TRVs, except for 4 towel rails (which were not replaced). Â TRV's are fully open on the landing and in the upstairs rooms, bedrooms are set between 0 and 3 according to whose room it is (we like it cold, our daughters prefer warmer). Â Unused rooms are set to 2/3 to stop them getting too cold.
The ASHP installers left the system running on the thermostats, with a 50 degC flow temperature. Â Hot water set to 45 degC and is heated whenever the tank drops below the threshold temperature (10 deg below the water setting I think). Having done a little bit of reading (and lurking here for a while), I recently changed this over to Weather Compensation, with a 40 degC flow at 0 ambient, dropping to 20 degC at 20 ambient. Â About 40 hours later the house is now sitting at a comfortable ~21 degC throughout. After running continuously for the first 12 hours or so, the ASHP is now cycling on and off roughly twice an hour. Thermostats throughout the house have been set to 23 degC.
I am a little surprised that when the ASHP turns off, the main circulating pump in the airing cupboard turns off, so just the UFH pump is running as this is independently controlled. Is this the expected behaviour? Â Shouldn't the main pump still run?
Is the ASHP cycling going to cause a problem, or is this acceptable?
I have been checking the system performance using the MelCloud app, and I am a bit suspicious of some of the figures for energy consumption. According to the app, we have used 754kWh for heating and hot water in November so far, but according to my meter readings we have used 575kWh plus 138kWh generated for the whole house. Â Even if we exported nothing, the whole house appears to have used less electricity than just the heating! Â Looking at yesterdays consumption report, between 11am and 10pm we seemed to use 1.5 to 2 kWh per hour with the ASHP cycling, with a CoP varying between 1.5 and 2. Â The CoP seems quite low to me, but not sure what to expect at the moment - outside temperature is varying from about 6 deg overnight, to about 12 during the day.
Am I correct to go with Weather Compensation? Â I have tried to get some help from the installers and they haven't been particularly useful - not replying to emails, no-one with the right expertise available to talk on the phone, and not able to send an engineer out due to too many being off sick with Covid.
Any help/comments grateful received.
Peter.
Hi Peter. Welcome to the forum. I too have a the Ecodan but the 14kw. Can I ask, do you have the package with the pre-plumbed cylinder?
@peterr your energy figure, is that heat delivered or heat used? I ask because those are two very very different things. It makes more sense for that to be delivered heat. a COP of 1-2 is pretty low especially if you have underfloor (which needs less heat). I have rads and I am running at 3-4 at the moment and I'd say my weather compensation is very similar 50@-4 and 25@16
On weather compensation, that is what I currently have running and it seems to be coping well so far but as you say, we haven't really been tested (yet) with dropping temperatures.Â
In terms of pumps running, I have the same situation. If you have zoned UFH / Radiators the pumps will run for as long as the thermostats are calling for heat. However, in weather compensation mode the main circulating pump is switched on and off by the FTC unit linked to flow temperature. So at times they are out of sync with each other.
I believe that the suggestions elsewhere on the forum would be to remove the zone manifold pumps and actuators completely and have a single run system all at the same temperature and let the FTC and the main circulating pump deal with everything using just the weather compensation mode (or the auto adaption with the additional remote room sensor) ..... but I haven't been brave enough yet!
We have a 14kWh Ecodan, 160m2 bungalow. 21-22C throughout, all radiators. From 1-18 Nov we used 330kWh heating and 30.2kWh HW. For the first week of that time I was using the thermostats to control room temp and weather compensation for flow temp; since then only weather compensation with thermostats at 30C. My compensation curve is similar to yours. Yesterday from 11am-10pm we were using an average of about 0.5kW for heating, also with ASHP cycling every 30-40 mins. I don't know my COP because it's not recording properly. If a lot of your use is HW your COP won't be high. Less than two sounds very low though.Â
You may find the cycling will stop when it gets colder. At the moment, because it's mild, I think my ASHP's minimum output is heating water faster than the radiators are emitting it, so it runs for a bit, hits the weather compensation temp, stops while the water cools then repeats.  My ASHP stops cycling at 7-8C outside temp. It then seems to run at at its minimum continuous output, at which time it's using about 1.2kW. Cycling twice per hour isn't going to do any harm.Â
It does sound like one of your energy recordings isn't right. Are you using the Ecodan controller's energy consumed? I always found that matched Melcloud very closely.     Â
I don't know about the pumps, sorry.
I think weather compensation is better than a set flow temperature although it takes a bit of experimentation to get it right. Whether it's cheaper for me to turn the heating on and off with thermostats or run it 24/7 I don't know yet. The Ecodan FTC5/6 controller also has a feature called auto adaptation, which uses room temp and weather compensation but it doesn't appear to work with 3rd party thermostats.  Â
@batalto unfortunately those are consumed figures 😳Â
Consumption summary from the app:
 Detailed consumption on a daily basis:
And delivered energy on a daily basis:
To me the figures look pretty horrendous, which is why I made the change to Weather Compensation mode about 2 days ago. Yesterday's figures will include a good amount of energy consumed with the heating on constantly to get the UFH slab up to temperature. Â Hopefully the daily figure for today will be a lot better!
Â
Posted by: @hjdI believe that the suggestions elsewhere on the forum would be to remove the zone manifold pumps and actuators completely and have a single run system all at the same temperature and let the FTC and the main circulating pump deal with everything using just the weather compensation mode (or the auto adaption with the additional remote room sensor) ..... but I haven't been brave enough yet!
This is essentially what I have just started doing. Â I have turned up all the stats so that they are constantly calling for heat and just letting the weather compensation set the flow temperature. Â It seems to be working well so far - 48 hours on from making the change and the house is sitting at a fairly constant temperature.
It took me a while to pluck up the courage to make the switch from room temperature control to weather compensation - it was looking at our energy consumption that finally gave me the push I needed 😀Â
Most of our consumption has been heating, I think it has been so high because we were using room temperature control, so when the UFH started calling for heat the ASHP would expend a lot of energy heating the slab up. Â When the room reached the required temperature the ASHP would switch off, letting the slab cool back down again, while the room still stayed fairly warm. Â Only when the room dropped below the stat temperature would the ASHP kick in and start the whole process of warming the slab up again. Â I am hopeful that now the slab is up to temperature it won't take as much energy to keep it there.
The same is probably true to some extent for the rooms heated by radiators, they were constantly heating up and cooling down, so the ASHP kept kicking in to get up to a 50 degC flow temperature.
@peterr your house size is about the same as mine. Given you've got UFH you should be using less power. Have you done a heat loss assessment? How well are you insulated?
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