I wanted to do the heatloss calculation on my house and see what difference various potential improvements in insulation might have.

Several decades on and it's now my home I'm tweaking, and I don't just mean redecorating or a bit of standard DIY. I've got a heat pump, solar PV and battery, and an electric vehicle and charger. However, I was always unlikely to leave each element as installed, running independently of the others. With each extra bit of kit installed, I was asking myself how it could benefit from knowing how everything else was running, hence my goal of a single integrated truly "smart" home.

Personally, I'm not really interested in a smart home that senses when I enter a room and turns the lights on automatically - the bother of flicking a switch is not a big deal for me - but I'm well aware that may be a valuable function for others. Being able to show Evri or Parcelforce video footage of their delivery driver leaving my parcel in the rain propped up against the wheelie bin (on several occasions) most definitely is important to me, but I couldn't pretend it's as high on everyone else's priortities list. In other words, how the technology in a home is set up and configured should match what the occupants value most.

Cue this thread.

I've noticed numerous times on the forum that a simple discussion about fixing a problem or preparing for an install has elicited a throwaway comment about some little hack or pearl of wisdom that several others have pounced upon, wanting to know more. This thread is intended to pre-empt that and provide somewhere where any of us can either share tweaks we've carried out that have been unexpectedly beneficial or can ask if (and how) it might be possible to do something they'd like to achieve. All flights of fancy - big or small - are welcome and no configuration rabbit holes are off topic. If the thread becomes too broad, we may well split it into multiple narrower threads but that's a problem for another day.

To get things started, here are a few things to ponder. I've come up with my own answers to them but you may want to consider how you tackle them or if you'd want to.

• The heat pump, the EV and the home battery are three potentially big consumers of imported electricity. If you choose to sign up to a time of use tariff, how do you balance the behaviour of each of those items against each other and against the prevailing import price to best effect?
• Do you gather information from t'interweb in order to make running changes to any of your kit based on the weather, the weather forecast, carbon intensity of the leccy you import, ad-hoc savings sessions etc.?
• Is there any single tweak you've made or would like to make that was or could be particularly effective?
• Is there any other smart kit you have or would like to implement and, if so, could it be (or has it become) something that interacts with your other big ticket items (e.g. if you're already getting a weather forecast, are you using that to do anything "smart" in your garden or greenhouse)?
• Given how much of this relies on internet connectivity, are you wanting to make changes to your home wifi and/or network in general to make it more reliable?

My current quest - and it's most certainly not life-changing - is that I'd like to find a means of measuring the temperature of my wood burning stove's flue. I need that means to be surface mounted (no drilling of holes in the flue), be able to reasonably accurately report flue temperatures up to 350degC (but not break if temperatures exceed that) and be network-enabled so as to report back to Home Assistant. I'm happy with cobbling together with a bit of circuitry and solder but just as happy with a ready-made solution. I am not, however, happy with the £180 price of an Aduro Smart Response box that otherwise does exactly what I want.

Over to you all. Welcome to tinkerer's corner and make of it what you will.

Everyone’s different. We read the regs, we wanted the wiring neat. Our wall insulation was planned. We wanted the wall tidy. So we took charge (pun mildly intended). We bought the charger unit, got a proper electrician who gave the certificate and all. When I realised the registration hadn’t been done with the DNO—well, I did it.

Now I’m eyeing up a second charger. Same house, same optimism—but definitely not the same brand.

Here’s what matters to me these days: reliability. Do what it says on the tin. No “beta features” that turns us into lab mice testers. No app that thinks my driveway is under the 5G mast. Or one that tries to deceive the ISO level API security standards my car manufacturer made available (with a sorry end).

Ideally my charger should:

• Top up the car battery to a minimum level by a set time (for those early commuters among us). No ifs nor buts.
• Do it as cheaply as possible, without any safety shortcuts.
• Use my PV power smartly or buy leccy when the grid’s cheap. And if so, charge it  to a higher level.
• Have an app that remembers who it is from one week to the next. Or no app at all, what’s wrong with a touchscreen on the charger?

And yes, it should be “kind to the grid.” Though honestly—how’s a normal human supposed to know what that means? Half the time, “grid-friendly” seems to mean “we limited your charging speed without telling you.”

What about you—have you found a charger that behaves like a grown-up appliance instead of an overexcited teenager with a Wi-Fi addiction?

Octopus Energy removed my gas meter last September, after I had a heat pump installed. But they replaced it with an earthing cable (I can't find the post with the proper name of this cable now - one of @Toodles?). The meter was on an external wall in the hall, about 2m to 3m from the electricity meter. I don't have solar, battery or EV charger.

I'm working towards getting the suspended wooden floor insulated and making perimeter airtight (membrane below and above insulation), and there are several things that will ideally be done before that happens, the relevant ones being
- lifting flooring
- installing a new dpc and then replastering most walls up to 1.2m, removing anything and everything attached to the walls below 1.2m
- where necessary lowering radiator pipework below the joists for ease of future maintenance
- removing redundant gas pipes to two reception rooms where there used to be gas fires, and the pipe to the gas hob in the kitchen (which isn't being used obviously).

Once the floor is up I was going to borrow some pipe cutters and start cutting off the redundant gas pipes. Is this safe to do? Having read a warning about how the rooms would smell of gas, I'm wondering how long it would take to dissipate?

Is the earth cable still needed? If needed, then would it be possible for an electrician to join the earth cable attached to the gas mains coming in through the external wall to the other bit connected to the gas pipe going down below the floor. If the bracket, the gas pipe and earth cable are no longer needed then the bracket can be removed and it's one (or two) fewer holes in membranes that will need taping up.

Apologies for tiny pic, can't seem to make it any bigger. And thanks in advance for any advice! 

So, I was wondering if I could combine something like heat punk or magicplan (a LIDAR app and engineer told me they were using) with images or information from a thermal camera (I have borrowed a FLIR edge one). 

The two vertical rads are 1800*440, I don't know the exact manufacturer but I can find plenty of flat 6 panel double rads with approx dimensions and they're all about 1500 W at dt50. 

My 2005 condensing combi boiler runs at approx 55 degrees C and the room stat is set to 18.4. I can just get the room to 19.5 if empty and I leave the thermostat on max. If there's two or three of us in the room we can get to 20.2.

Boiler temp is measured with the IR camera and an IR thermometer on the rads and pipework.

The room is approx 43m2, 22 of that is new 2018 extension with a sloped roof. I have drawings for that so I know the floor and roof have 100 mm insulation. known U values of 0.22 floor, 0.21 for the external wall, 0.15 for the sloped roof.

Any help is much appreciated! Thanks in advance 

I'm new here as I'm considering to install a heat pump. Happy to read a lot of great information and sharing here. While searching for heat pump information, I heard a plumber said antifreeze in heat pump is corrosive to rubber rings at copper pipe junctions if they're not joined by welding. Within 10 years there will be leakage from the joints. There's currently no way to avoid this. It is very difficult to find the exact location of leakage because the pipes are running undeground or between walls. Is this true? I'm unable to find anything about this online.

YF

We’ve just released the latest episode of Homeowners’ Q&A, where we dive into heat loss calculations and their importance in sizing heat pumps correctly. Our panel – featuring Michael Crook from Heat Pump Installers UK, Graham Hendra, and @jamespa (from the Renewable Heating Hub community) – discusses why accurate heat loss calculations are critical to ensuring your heat pump is the right size for your property.

We cover common issues that arise from inaccurate calculations and how homeowners can avoid costly mistakes. James shares his personal story of how incorrect heat loss surveys nearly led to an oversized and inefficient heat pump installation.

Special thanks to One Heat Loss for sponsoring this episode. They specialise in providing independent heat loss calculations for both homeowners and installers. For more information or to take advantage of their special offer for Renewable Heating Hub members, email your plans to info@oneheatloss.co.uk, mention Renewable Heating Hub, and receive an automatic discount!

Got questions about heat loss calculations? Drop them below.

https://youtu.be/S2SYE2xRIhQ

In this article, I want to take highlight the significance of water quality in heat pump systems by sharing some photos of a broken circulation pump. While there are several potential causes of damage, the most common culprit is often the cheapest component of the system: water.

I’m not a chemical engineer, but it’s clear that when dealing with water – the primary medium in an air-to-water heat pump system – and various materials such as copper, plastic and steel, maintaining proper water quality is essential.

The VDI 2035 guideline serves as the main standard for heating water treatment, though, in my experience, few people prioritise it. For a comprehensive guide, I recommend reading “Heating Water Treatment Explained” on the Heat Geek website.

The Role of Water Quality

Water quality is crucial for the longevity and efficiency of a heat pump system. Water with high levels of impurities, such as minerals, oxygen and certain chemicals, can lead to a range of problems:

• Corrosion: High levels of dissolved oxygen or improper pH levels can cause corrosion of the system’s metallic components. Over time, this corrosion can weaken pipes, heat exchangers and pumps, leading to system failures.

• Scale Formation: Hard water, which contains high levels of calcium and magnesium, can lead to scale deposits inside the system. These deposits restrict water flow, reduce heat transfer efficiency and increase the workload on the pump, often resulting in premature failure.

• Debris & Contaminants: Without proper filtration, debris can circulate within the system, leading to blockages and damage to the moving parts of the circulation pump, as shown in the images below.

The Impact on Circulation Pumps

The circulation pump is the heart of a heat pump system, responsible for moving water throughout the system. Poor water quality takes a toll on this critical component, often being the first to show signs of damage. The images provided illustrate several key issues:

• Impeller Wear: Contaminants in the water can erode or clog the impeller, which is vital for water movement.

• Seal Degradation: Poor water quality can degrade the seals within the pump, causing leaks and further mechanical issues.

• Internal Corrosion: Corrosion due to improper water chemistry can severely impact the pump’s efficiency and lead to complete system failure.

The Importance of Material Selection

In addition to maintaining water quality, choosing the right piping materials is equally important. Using incompatible materials can exacerbate system degradation. For example:

• Copper Pipes: While commonly used, copper can suffer from pitting corrosion if the water is too acidic.

• Galvanised Steel Pipes: These are prone to corrosion, especially in systems with poor water quality, leading to rust that can clog and damage pumps and other components. They are generally not recommended for heating systems, particularly when glycol is involved.

• Plastic Pipes: Materials like PEX or CPVC are often preferred in systems with water quality issues, as they are more resistant to corrosion and scaling.

Closing Thoughts

Maintaining proper water quality in your heat pump system is not just about ensuring efficient operation – it’s about protecting your investment. Poor water quality and inappropriate piping materials can cause significant damage to the circulation pump and other vital components, leading to costly repairs or replacements.

Regular water testing, the use of suitable filtration systems, and careful selection of piping materials are all essential steps in preventing these issues. By taking proactive measures, you can extend the life of your heat pump system and ensure it operates at peak efficiency.

Remember, a small investment in water quality maintenance today can save you from substantial costs due to system failure in the future.

My interest in DIY heat pump installations began when I converted my old garage into a workshop. As a keen and experienced ‘DIYer,’ I wanted the satisfaction of doing the entire project myself—including heating this previously damp and dark space. I chose to install a mini-split air conditioner in heating mode because I could keep it completely separate from the house, it was relatively cheap, and I have previous experience with these systems.

The practical side of the installation was straightforward, especially compared to understanding the permitted development and planning application aspects! In this article, I’ll share what I learned about the legal and regulatory aspects of installing my own system. It should be applicable to both dedicated air source heat pumps (ASHPs) and split-system air conditioners being used to heat spaces such as workshops, home offices, etc.

Permitted Development

Many professional air-conditioning and heat pump contractors state that any installation can be done under ‘Permitted Development’ (PD). In many situations that may well be the case, but it should be noted that the PD route has many restrictions. The following is a summary of the legislation, which is slightly different for England, Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales. You should check the full details depending on where you live – there are links are at the bottom of the page. 

The restrictions are typically:

• Compliance with MCS Planning Standards or equivalent standards.
• Only one ASHP permitted per property. (A block of flats usually counts as one property.)
• The ASHP unit must be more than 1m from property boundaries. It must be more than 1m from the edge of a flat roof and not on a pitched roof.
• There mustn’t be a wind turbine at the property.
• THE ASHP mustn’t face a highway if installed above ground storey.
• The ASHP must not be on, or on the land of, a listed building.
• The ASHP must not be in an Area of Natural Beauty (AONB), National Park, Conservation Area or World Heritage Site.

Apart from the first in the list, the requirements are clear. The first one, the MCS Planning Standards. is somewhat contentious, and has been discussed in several posts on the Renewable Heating Hub Forums. In summary:

• The standard was written by MCS, and requires that both products and installation contractors be certified by MCS. 
• The cost of MCS certification is high, so much so that there are now umbrella schemes so that non-MCS contractors can work via an MCS certified company to avoid the certification expense.
• The quality of work of MCS installers is being questioned. See https://renewableheatinghub.co.uk/why-your-mcs-certified-installer-might-not-be-as-competent-as-you-think.

Fortunately, the Permitted Development legislation specifies ‘MCS Planning Standards or equivalent standards’. Unfortunately, there isn’t guidance on what is considered an ‘equivalent standard’, but it could be argued that the following would be valid as an ‘equivalent standard’.

1. Selecting an MCS approved heat pump 
2. Working within the recommendations of MIS 3005 except for the MCS certification requirement 
3. Meeting the noise calculation requirements of MCS 020 (see below) 

In my opinion, this part of the legislation lacks clarity. That MCS wrote the standard that has been included in the legislation appears dubious, especially since it requires installers have MCS certification (a process from which MCS itself financially benefits). A more open approach would be to either detail the requirements in the legislation itself, or to have several organisations offering acceptable certification routes, which would create a competitive market.

The MCS 020 Noise Calculation

It is perfectly possible to do the equivalent of the MCS 020 noise assessment yourself. The guidelines look confusing, but have been made more user-friendly by Heat Geek in their video.

Can you DIY install under Permitted Development?

Given the above, yes, I believe it possible to do a DIY installation of an ASHP, working within the PD rules, and fulfilling ‘equivalent standards’ to the MCS Planning Standards requirement. Indeed, MCS themselves, say that ‘an MCS certificate is not a mandatory or legal requirement for system installation’. See https://mcscertified.com/consumers-communities/certificate-queries.

However, there are a couple of other things that should be considered:

The system must be for heating purposes only.
PD excludes systems that are capable of cooling - i.e. air-conditioners. However, many Local Planning Authority departments are happy to take a sensible approach as they realise that people are using air-conditioners as heat pumps. Also see the conclusion below.

Permitted Development may be restricted by the Local Planning Authority (LPA)
Some LPAs restrict the installation of ASHPs under PD by imposing an 'Article 4 direction'. This is typically invoked by inner city LPAs where they think noise could an issue in densely populated areas, or it could detract from the unique architecture of an area. See https://commonslibrary.parliament.uk/when-is-planning-permission-not-needed-permitted-development-in-england/

Planning Permission

If your proposed installation doesn’t meet the PD requirements, it doesn’t necessarily mean you cannot have an ASHP. Instead you must obtain Planning Permission.  

Even if you intend to go down the PD route, an email to check the position with your LPA is a good idea. In my experience, LPAs vary, ranging from unresponsive to disinterested to pragmatic to obstructive, but I think it is good to establish where you stand before committing time and money.

While LPAs are under pressure to permit renewable heat systems, they do have the power to make you remove a system if they consider it in breach of Planning Permission. It can be better in the long run to have some evidence showing you approached them prior to installation.

Other regulatory considerations

As well as Permitted Development and Planning Permission, you should also consider the following regulatory requirements prior to undertaking a DIY ASHP installation:

District Network Operators

Your electricity is supplied by the District Network Operator (DNO). They need to be notified prior to installing a heat pump (or electric vehicle charging point) so they can use the data for infrastructure planning. Note that

1. the DNO is not necessarily the company you pay your bill to, and
2. you are not seeking permission, it is simply a requirement to inform them.

In my experience, DNOs can be slow to respond and are only interested in dedicated heat pumps, rather than small air-conditioners acting as ASHPs. Nevertheless, they should be consulted as a matter of diligence. The process for notification them is currently changing, which will hopefully improve response times. See https://www.energynetworks.org/industry/connecting-to-the-networks/connecting-electric-vehicles-and-heat-pumps

F-gas 

Heat pumps utilise refrigerant gases. If it’s an F-gas (fluorinated gas) you are required by law to use a F-gas qualified professional to do anything involving the refrigerant connections. This shouldn’t stop you doing the rest of the installation yourself, it’s just any F-gas connections or lines that must not be touched. When purchasing your system will need to inform the merchant which F-gas installer you will be using.

Note that some refrigerants such as R290 (propane) are not F-gases. This removes the requirement for an F-gas registered installer.  However, R290 propane is highly flammable which introduces a significant risk that some sellers and manufacturers are playing down. In reality it is blow-torch gas, without the added odour, being pumped at pressure around a system whose joints are continually stressed through thermal expansion and contraction! There have been suggestions that it could invalidate house insurance, but I haven’t yet seen it specifically mentioned in conditions or exclusions. That is to say, I wouldn’t be installing an R290 system in my own home!

Building regulations

Building regulations are separate from Planning Permission or Permitted Development. They are concerned with the standards of the work rather than the permission to do it. 

Heat pump installations usually require Building Regulation approval, whereas mini-split air conditioners typically do not. However, as with Permitted Development and Planning Permission, I recommend checking with your local Building Control department.

Your installation should meet all Building Regulation requirements, including Part P for electrical work and equivalent regulations for plumbing, especially if there are components under pressure. The relevant Government documents are listed at the bottom of the page.

Conclusion

In summary; yes, you can do a DIY heat pump installation. Knowing that you have researched and are meeting all the legal and regulatory requirements will give you confidence going forward. Especially when you know that some professional installers don’t pay as much attention to the finer details surrounding PD and Planning Permission.

Unfortunately, if you want (and are eligible) to claim a government grant you almost always have to go down the MCS certified installer route. The process was designed to ensure the government wasn’t giving grant money to rogue installers, but it has introduced its own issues as detailed above. 

Finally, the rules around PD are likely to change. From February to April 2024 there was a Government consultation proposing the relaxation of some requirements (including removing the ‘heating only’ condition that excludes air conditioners from PD). The outcome is awaited - see https://www.gov.uk/government/consultations/changes-to-various-permitted-development-rights-consultation for full details.

Good luck if you decide to DIY! It’s very rewarding and can save a lot of money too – especially if you aren’t eligible for a Government grant.

Written by Justin Macklin from Checkmark: https://check-mark.co.uk
Checkmark provides an F-gas commissioning service for DIY installations. Their website provides lots of information about DIY installation of ASHPs and air-conditioners.

Links: Permitted Development

England: https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/schedule/2/part/14/crossheading/class-g-installation-or-alteration-etc-of-air-source-heat-pumps-on-domestic-premises/paragraph/G

Northern Ireland: https://www.legislation.gov.uk/nisr/2015/70/schedule/part/2 and amended by https://www.legislation.gov.uk/nisr/2023/95 

Scotland: https://www.gov.scot/publications/householder-permitted-development-rights-guidance-updated-2021/pages/8/ 

Wales: https://www.gov.wales/planning-permission-heat-pumps 

Links: Building Regulations

Part L – Conservation of Fuel and Power: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/conservation-of-fuel-and-power-approved-document-l

Part F – Ventilation: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/ventilation-approved-document-f

Part O – Overheating (new residential building only) https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/overheating-approved-document-o

Part P – Electrical Safety: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/electrical-safety-approved-document-p 

• A Domestic Electric Installation Certificate for the whole electrical installation.
• A MCS certificate for installation and equipment used on the solar panels

What else should I be looking for?