My installer left me the entire package from soup to nuts but from what I read here that does not seem to be the norm.  May I enquire what part of central Scotland you are in? I ask because in my corner of eastern Perthshire we are a group of 16 house none of whom get any mobile signal whatsoever and the few brave souls who have attempted smart meters have very dumb meters. I very much doubt that the Arqiva signal from Durris, near Banchory,  can get us. 

We have the invoice, MCS certificate, not necessarily insurance backed warranty details but at least the paperwork for the equipment which contains the usual warranty stuff.  Also manuals.

But I do't seeheat loss calculations for each room, internal and design temps, and the duty of the heat emitters in each room.  I suppose the design max heat emitter flow temp is in the quote, but I don't see any details of maintenance requirements beyond what the manuals say.

Also no sign of comissioning control values...

I take it this is quite normal. 

I am also irritated that it isn't really possible to work out the COP without adding more measuring gubbins. 

I have a similar Samsung and have found a hot water mode that works for me. I am on an Agile tarif and so I force the hotwater to heat up at 2pm-3pm and 2am-3am when electricity is cheap.

I had mixed success with this to start with as I had the schedule set to Off for the remaining time and On only in those time windows. The problem was that if the tank temperature didn't drop to the bottom of its hysteresis band at 40 during that On period, it wouldn't charge. That sometimes left me with water at 41 at 3pm, that wouldn't last until 2am. I found that if I changed a DHW mode setting I could force it to ignore the hysteresis band and charge up when it was turned On. This was much better. However I still had the occasional issue when lots of hot water was used that it wasn't heated on-demand. I also didn't want it heating at peak times due to cost.

I ended up with two time windows where it will be On and forced to heat, two peak times it is Off and won't heat. The rest of the time is in economy mode which is 5c cooler, which has the effect of not heating unless the tank cools a lot. This worked an absolute treat in the summer. I might get rid of the 2am charge in the winter, although the COP hasn't been too bad overnight right now.

Regarding the heating, I do wonder how effective set points are, given they require setting the flow temperature/water law higher to be able to recover. I have been dropping my water law down to a point where around 8c is modulated right down and running continously. It was cycling before. I am gauging this by looking at the operating time measurement in the energy consumption on the control panel. Mine is a slighly different case though as I have a third party controller and no solar panels/battery. I hope to get some panels soon though!

Good luck with your adventures with the Samsung unit. I am enjoying mine overall, but the data exposed thought the controller is minimal. e.g. I can't work out COP of hotwater and heating individually.

https://midsummerwholesale.co.uk/buy/renewable-heat-accessories/cy-2-core-comms-cable

I think I shall leave that alone for now until I understand if it affects any warranty or suchlike.  Probably the easiest long term option.

I don't think much of the fridge comparison, HPs are much more complicated with variable speed compressors working at much higher power levels and with greater lubrication challenges, lots of soldiered joints in the heat exchanger exposed to greater temperature ranges, let alone the electronics, inverter, plate heat exchanger, reversing valve etc.

It's nice to know that AA works well. I'll probably give it a try when I get time, thanks for that.

@Sliderule, I wouldn't become too concerned by some cycling.  As @cathoderay has explained, it's what ASHPs do.  You fridge cycles all the time and never comes to any harm.  The sort of cycling that tends to happen at the right hand end of the WC curve, 2-4 times per hour, is OK.  The rapid cycling, 6 plus times per hour that happens when something is wrong or you only have one radiator open isn't, but can usually be fixed. 

The way you are running your ASHP sounds fine.  AA will have a similar result but without manual intervention.  In my case, it pretty much eliminates cycling, even at warmer OATs. 

As an alternative to relocating your control panel you can connect a remote temp sensor Mitsubishi Electric PAC-SE41TS.  These are about £20 off eBay.  You can also use the wireless controller but these are expensive and hard to find right now.  

What Ecodan do you have? 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lYM2jclJvcQ&list=PLfU4EBfUMOvnVTB0WhyqQ23pvt7hnrc54&index=3&pp=iAQB