settings button , buttom right hand corner of your controller.

scroll right -> schedule

fairly intuitive from there on

As far as I can see there is no way that the Eastron could possibly know which zone is active. It's not incorrectly wired, it's not wired at all.

You are correct. There should be a cable from terminal B17 in the control kit (the large white metal box with all the electrics inside) that goes to the L2 terminal in the Eastron. B17 becomes live when DHW is being heated and so when B17 is

connected to L2 in the Eastron, this becomes live as well. This tells the Eastron to label the flow temperature reading as DHW (there is only one flow temperature reading - it is just the label that changes). When L2 is not live the flow temperature is labelled as space heating.

It took 3 months for G L to get Passivliving to work at all. The G L electrician, who eventually sorted it, seemed very capable, but I presume they are instructed not to bother to connect a cable between B17 in the control kit and L2 in the Eastron. It is quite clearly explained in the Passivliving MMSP installation guide, so why they don't follow it, beats me. In my case there is a connection between L1 and L2, which there shouldn't be, which means that L2 is permanently live and my flow temperature is always labelled DHW. I did finally get a date for another G L electrician to correct this, but I had to cancel it and despite leaving messages they never got back to me. I asked Ofgem if it was important to rectify and they never replied, so I left it.

Just looking at this again. Do you have a data cable going from your zone valve to your Eastron? Mine zone valves don't have any data cables, the only one I have that goes into the Eastron is from the Sontex. The Sontex has two temp sensor cables and one from the heat meter. As far as I can see there is no way that the Eastron could possibly know which zone is active. It's not incorrectly wired, it's not wired at all.

I had assumed that KWH used included both the indoor and outdoor equipment, but now you you've got me thinking. Unfortunately there is no way to tell from the wiring as its very difficult to see. I can only think of turning everything in the house off, running the heat pump then comparing the PassivLiving usage to that on my actual meter. That is a job for next week.

If I move the cursor over the graph it displays the figures for that 2 minute slot (where the dots are), which is what you can see on the screen shots. I'm not sure how much value that is

I find the display quite helpful, especially if you expand the time scale using the sliders. The energy consumed and energy output figures are measured at 2 minute intervals, so multiplying by 30 gives you the power consumed and outputted at that point in time. Dividing one by the other gives you the COP at that time and it is revealing how COP changes over time after the ASHP starts up. I note that when heating DHW, your flow temperature label is 'Heating Flow Temperature' rather than 'Hot Water Flow Temperature'. This is due to G L not wiring your Eastron SDM630 correctly. I have the same issue, only in reverse! I only have 'Hot Water Flow Temperature' readings whether space heating or DHW heating as the L2 terminal is permanently live. Yours is clearly never live.

Insulate those first. Ideally insulate all of them, but prioritise those. Get 28mm economy grey pipe insulation from screwfix, £2 a metre, spend a few hours with a stanley knife and some gaffer tape. This made a big difference to the behaviour of mine.

reheating when it drops by 5C, funnily enough I'm having the same issue myself. I can't figure out which setting stops it doing this, I have set FSV3023 to 30 but it still does it. Easiest workaround is to set a timer so that the DHW can only reheat during X time of day. you'll have to juggle X depending on your usage, is one tank a day enough or do you need a 2nd reheat, only you can work this out. DHW reheat efficiency on the ASHP will always be better if you can start with a cool tank and do a full tank reheat, rather than a top-up. I try to reheat mine it once only , at night, when the electricity is also cheaper, with an ad-hoc manual topup only if needed.

your efficiencies do indeed look reasonable, hourly, daily and longer term numbers are the ones to keep an eye on, a  2 minute value for COP is kinda pointless!  But,  if you can tune out the un-needed DHW reheats you should improve it measurably.

If you are able to rebuild at any point as per our previous discussion, losing the ABV that will get you a tad more as it improves the thermodynamics a bit (by not sending too-hot water back to the HP), and getting head resistance down will enable the circulating pump to run at lower wattage. Is the electricity meter that is hooked to this metering system measuring only the outdoor unit or both the indoor and outdoor? it needs to include the indoor to include the pump power.

the figures look perfectly decent but still a bit inconsistent in terms of the totals . My per-day numbers are roughly double yours in both input and output (we did think your system probably didn't really need a 12kw I think in the discussion at the start?) but my total figure for the last 7 is about the same as yours, which doesn't make sense...

Yesterday KWH Used 4.66 KWH Produced 20.13 Efficiency 4.31

Tuesday KWH Used 4.89 KWH Produced 19.79 Efficiency 4.04

Last Wed KWH Used 1.8 KWH Produced 7.92 Efficiency 4.4

The efficiency looks pretty good. If I look at a larger time frame including all hours...

Last 6ish days KWH Used 80.29 KWH Produced 276.8 Efficiency 3.44

Since Jan 2022 (Install) KWH Used 5,730 Produced 20,772 Efficiency 3.62

I also kept an eye on the HW temperature today whilst not running any hot water. It's losing about 0.5c per hour. Is that what you would expect?