We don't need specialist pipe insulation installers, as the pro installers have the skills to do the job.

They do?

But that isn't apparent from the photos we're regularly seeing posted here on the Forum.

The pictures we're seeing here are indicative of pipe insulation (external & internal) being applied in haste at the conclusion of  the install.
There's no obvious skill or awareness of the thermal losses.
Nor does there appear to be much pride in the contractor leaving his visible work in a state which suggests a 'job well done'.

Back in 2021, BEIS ran a heat-pump trial, headed up by Alex Hobley.

Government selected a number of professional installers to put heat-pumps into 740 dwellings, spread across three areas of UK.
I followed the Trial participants in SE England, whose installations were coordinated by OVO Energy.

The quality of workmanship was appalling, with pipe insulation being a front-runner.

The largest installation contractor was dismissed from the scheme, and HP manufacturers were 'bailing out' BEIS by sending their own in-house staff to sites and fixing problems.

The Electrification of Heat Trial was compiled into a report by the Energy Catapult at the end of 2022.
Having spent of £14m of taxpayers' money, the main conclusion was that Heat Pumps can be 3x more efficient than gas boilers.

I could've written that by reading the manufacturers' own literature.

I'm delighted to see Primary Pro properly developed and available to current installers.

I wonder how much faster you would have created Primary Pro if a small fraction of the £14m had been offered to you instead of frittered away on poor installations.
Government schemes never seem to favour the innovators who could actually get things right.

Nor did BEIS act on the deficiencies which that Trial identified.
I've never seen that Report being cited as evidence for any category of heat-pump installation work - good or bad.

been in the heating industry for over 43 years 

from apprentice, sole trader to owning a large heating company, sold in 2017, to then move into manufacturing, designing and making exsternal insulation products to help professional heating engineers 

The products provided for them over the last 25 years were not made for exsternal insulation, and as I advise, it is virtually impossible for the pro to fut and seal correctly in UK weather conditions 

This is why we see many with the wrong insulation, not fitted & sealed correctly ( loads of tie wraps to hold it on as not sealed correctly )

They did not have a product to help them 

I can honestly say, over the last 7 years, we have been providing products and tools to help Pros. We have seen so many quality installations, as they have the product and tools to help. 

We don't need specialist pipe insulation installers, as the pro installers have the skills to do the job. It's best to insulate as you fit the exsternal pipework, sliding most of it onto the pipework, fitting the sleeve,  fitting the insulated pipe through the sleeve to the inside of the property and sealing. 

Please have a look at our  primary YouTube channel, or c if anyone needs help or advice, just post on here and tag me in 

There to help and provide information to this great community hub 

thanks 

So boxing around them solves two problems... visual and thermal loss.

But there should be 400-500mm gap behind the external unit to allow free flow of incoming air.
Adding boxing without increasing the distance would further impede the air, resulting in the system being less efficient.

Is there enough slack on the flexible pipes which connect to the heat-pump to allow it to be moved forwards?

Yes, I realise it's heavy.
But thieves are usually successful with a trolley-jack.  🤔 

If you do decide to add boxing, remember that it must be rodent-proof.

Pipe insulation makes excellent nesting material.

So that leaves me with, is it worthwhile covering all the pipework, if so any ideas on what to use?

taken the shut off lever off for now need to cut the sticking out ends off.

You don't have to keep the lever bolted in place...
... so long as you remember where you put it in the event of needing to shut off the pipe in an emergency!

But you do need to cover that hole where the nut for the lever semi-protrudes.

You don't want rain to run inside the insulation now, because there's not an easy way for it to escape.

As I have a 3D printer, my solution would be to make a cover which clips into place.
But use adhesive-backed tape if that's all you have available.

I am curious is putting a removable cover of benefit? If so are we talking about covering all the pipework even behind the heat pump?

if anyone has questions about Primary Pro, please tag David. He is the creator of Primary Pro and Condensate Pro.

Thanks....
... and to @david-s for your useful comments.

I fear that many contractors not only fail to buy the right pipe insulation hardware, but also rush through the job on the same final-day as they're meant to be commissioning the system and writing instructions for the customer.

What we really need is someone with OCD who understands the need to get this right,
and will actually put in the effort to properly cut and install pipe insulation with the required bore.

What happens to all those school-leavers with OCD who have been let down by inadequate education?

County Councils are very concerned at the increasing funding required for SEND and adult social care...
... whereas we could actually do with employing those young adults in order to get insulation done properly!

There's a gap in the market here, for specialist pipe insulation installers who can be brought onto site whilst the MCS-approved contractor moves on to the next installation.
... or am I about to be shut down for not being politically correct?

So my question is that the right stuff to buy and do?

The products you mention are very good for inside but not for external.

If you look, they have a low water diffusion resistance and will absorb moisture, water over time 

This increases the thermal conductivity and so reduces the efficiency of the insulation 

1% of moisture can increase the thermal conductivity by 7.5 %

damp/wet insulation 

on contact adhesive 

This is very useful internally, as the temperature and atmosphere are dry, so it works very well 

externally is the temperature is lower than 10 degrees, or the humidity is higher than 80 %, then it is virtually impossible to use 

So on winter or rainy days, you can't use it 

Then there is the sealing around the holes where the anti-freeze valves are and other exsternal fittings, they all need to be sealed 

So for external insulation you need 

a good thermal conductivity 

high water diffusion resistance ( over 20,000 MU ) 

all joints and gaps must be sealed to stop energy for getting out and moisture/water getting in 

This is where Primary Pro worked over three years on issues ,  looked at all the issues and found solutions, and then made all the products and tools to help the Professional installer, as it needs a skilled professional to fit is corectly 

Hope this helps