I love the P3. It's a really awesome thermal imaging camera, but if I'm brutally honest it does pretty much the same job as the P2 when it comes to basic home thermal imaging (rads, UFH, air leaks, etc.). I just finished reviewing it a couple of weeks ago:

https://youtu.be/S5wUkIFYinQ

If you buy the P3 from here https://thermalmaster.com/hgbpnuijlf and use the code RENEW10 you'll get 10% off.  

I am in the market looking for a Thermal Imaging device to attach to Andriod (Samsung S25), and wondering if anyone has done/ is doing any research on current models on the market ?

I see that Thermal Master P2 Pro model is currently upgraded to Thermal Master P3; albeit it costs approx 1/3 more, it has a longer lens focal length and manual focus. That said, not sure how much added benefit these new features offer when monitor a heating system ?

🤔

Yes, just as you say it’s terrible with metal surfaces.  You can sometimes program in the emissivity, I think ‘mine’ defaults to 0.95.  An emissivity 0.95 means 95% of the reading will be of the surface, and 5% is a reflection.  Reprogramming the units 0.95 value just changes how the camera interprets the amount of 10um radiation hitting it,  it won’t alter the picture itself.   If it’s a shiny surface, like a window, you’ll still see images in the reflections, and you won’t see through it or walls, not like in the movies!.  I think clean metal is so low emissivity as to be pointless - stick anything on it and it will be ok - pvc tape, paper, paint, dirt.

I use my companies Flir camera - I think it's E40, or something like that.  It was pricey (£5k), but that was ages ago, they're all much cheaper now.  It's best when it's dark and cloudy and cold - the sun heats objects up, and the night sky is very cold so things unevenly cool down if they can "see" it.  When it's cold you get better contrast.  I think the more expensive cameras have manual focus, bigger aperture, so lower noise, the work one is 50fps - not needed for my "non work activities"!  

I tend to let the camera autorange first, then "lock it off", fixing the Tmin and Tmax of the display, so as I walk around the colours don't change their meaning.  I like the colour bar on the side for easy reference later.

Here's a pic I took of a friends house recently.  I've labelled the walls a(left gable), b(above campervan), c(right hand side):

a) cavity wall insulated

b) rendered cavity wall.  Don't think they filled the cavity, hence glowing.

c) wooden slats over cavity wall.  Don't think they filled cavity.  It looks like it is ok - but cold air will be circulating behind the cladding, so the pic "lies".

https://amzn.to/4gkv08Q

https://youtu.be/BpqbTnTtRuk