I shared some stuff about my radiator balancing software back in 2024 and there was a little bit of interest, so I wanted to post a follow up.

My original approach was based on the crude approach of balancing that assumed all the radiators had the same dT. The more I learned, the more I came to realise that rule of thumb didn't always apply (YouTube Video)

I also came to realise that using radiators might be a good way to measure heat loss on a room-by-room basis. If a radiator putting out 500W can only reach a temp of 18° when it's 0° outside, you can estimate the W/°C needed for the room. It can also help identify rooms with radiators that are sized correctly but which are simply not getting enough heat. 

Over the past year, I've continued work on my own dual temperature sensor. It is compatible with Matter and can be added to HomeAssistant, iOS Home or Google Home etc. I even designed a PCB for it. The sensor is battery operated with almost a year's life on a coin cell (I'm using much larger batteries for testing, which should give about 10 years of operation)

Temperature probes are then attached to each tail of the radiator to get measurements.

In addition to the sensor, I started building a monitoring platform too. This combines the measurements from the radiators with room temperature and radiator info (size etc) to calculate the output. This is build on the ESP32 chip and uses the Matter protocol too, so it supports any sort of sensor out of the box. 

By using the current outdoor temperature, it can calculate the heat loss of each room. All of the data is also pushed via MQTT for historical purposes.

It's not complete by any stretch and there are many more features I want to add, but it's been working away solidly for the past few weeks. Just in time for Spring to arrive and the heating to go off!

As ever, I have recorded a YouTube video which shows the system in action - YouTube

I will continue to refine my sensor and software over the next few months. I also plan to find out if a single sensor can do the job. 

What do you think?

PS My heat pump saga continues. My trench is dug (all 15m) and I'm waiting on the insulated primaries now!

I am planning to put a back-panel board for mounting equipment. Neither installer has stipulated whether their equipment is mounted on a board or onto the concrete 'breeze-block'  wall.

1. Am I wasting resources here on pandering a tendency to have,  "a place for everything, and everything in it's place ?"

2. If others here have done this in their property, what  batten depth would suffice to mount an OSB board ?  I am thinking 50mm x 25mm tanalised batten.

Grateful for any views,  ... on both questions !

I need to change the Thermostatic valve on our shower. Draining our old conventional system was straightforward (maybe it still is ? )

There is an isolator tap in the "cold supply in pipe", if I close this and drain through the shower and bathroom taps will that empty the hot and cold sufficient to disconnect the shower ?

TIA  

Flow errors are among the most common issues homeowners face with their heat pumps, as discussed on the Renewable Heating Hub forums. Often, the culprit is a blocked Y-strainer filter, which can restrict the system’s flow and cause operational issues. The good news? Cleaning the filter is simple and can be done in a few easy steps.

Why Clean the Y-Strainer?

The Y-strainer filter plays a crucial role in preventing debris from circulating through your heating system. Over time, sludge, rust and other particles can accumulate, leading to reduced efficiency or even flow errors. Regular maintenance helps keep your system running smoothly.

Step-by-Step Guide to Cleaning the Y-Strainer

1. Prepare: Grab a bowl or container to catch any water and a spanner or water pipe pliers.

2. Shut Down: Turn off the heat pump and wait for the distribution pumps to stop.

3. Isolate the Filter: Locate and close the valves on either side of the Y-strainer.

4. Loosen the Nut: Place your bowl underneath the strainer and use your spanner to loosen the nut (lefty loosey). Once loose, remove the nut by hand.

5. Clean the Filter: Take the gauze filter and nut to a sink. Rinse them thoroughly under running water, ensuring all debris is removed.

6. Inspect: Check the water collected in your bowl – it’ll give you an idea of how dirty your system is.

7. Reassemble: Reinsert the clean gauze filter into the nut and screw it back onto the strainer (righty tighty). Tighten by hand first, then snug it up with your spanner.

8. Check for Leaks: Slowly reopen the valves while watching for leaks. If there’s any seepage, isolate and re-tighten.

9. Restart: With no leaks and the valves fully open, restart your heat pump.

When to Call for Help

If flow errors persist after cleaning the filter, the issue might lie elsewhere. Consult a heating engineer or your heat pump manufacturer for further support.

Routine cleaning of the Y-strainer can significantly enhance your system’s performance, keeping your home warm and your heat pump efficient.

Draining and refilling my present system  is reasonably straightforward as it will be the upstairs rads only and I have some Fernox to replace what is lost but when the heat pump is in how much does water quality matter? Is it OK to refill and top up directly from the mains as at present? It will be water only, no glycol.

I live in the area supplied by South West Water which is from boreholes and subsequently hard (some kettle furring). At present our water has a TDS (total dissolved solids ) of 230. 

My homebrew group got the following water report  from SWW  Ca2+ 65 Mg2+13 Na+ 10 Cl+32 So42- 20 Hco3- 193. if that helps.

• Grass and weeds growing through the gravel
• Grass encroaching onto the gravel from both sides

It's taken 5 years to get this point, so I wanted to do a hard reset and get it looking new. We don't like to use weedkillers like Round Up, so would like to tackle this project manually. I was thinking of a box scraper of some description. 

If anyone has any creative ideas, please let me know.

The only use I make of it is for smart light bulbs control. When the house is vacant I like to have lights coming on and off in different rooms in order to simulate occupancy as a security measure.  The issue I have is the tedium of being required to physically enable 30+ routines on exit and the reverse on return.  I have Googled like a mad thing and cannot find an answer, work around or solution to my issue. 

So to my question.  Is it possible to enable and disable all routines with a single voice command?  It would be a great advantage to be able to leave the house and issue a voice command of “Alexa enable all lights routines” or “Alexa enable security light routines” and similar on my return home.

If it’s at all possible can you please (PLEASE) make instructions or better still a walk through very simple as I’m not too hot with techie stuff such as this.

Many thanks in advance.

To my understanding, you cannot use a 24V battery on a 48V tool because the motor in the tool is designed to run on a specific voltage, and using a lower voltage battery will not provide enough power to the motor, which could cause the motor to overheat and burn out.

Does the inverse apply? Will fitting a 48V battery into a 24V tool cause the motor to try and draw more current than it is designed for, leading to potential damage?